HomeServicesEventsResourcesWho We AreTraining TipsPhotos and Videos


positive and practical solutions to behavior issues

 

In this issue:
Behavior Training Tools
Do All Dogs Know Dog Language?
Setting Boundaries
Teachable Moments
Barrier Frustration
Our Group Classes
Behavior Training Class Description
Busy Bee Training

Seize the Leash Calendar

Barrier Frustration

Barrier frustration can occur if a dog is behind a window, fence, or on a leash and is not allowed to interact with the environment. After a while, the dog may get frustrated and aggressive.

Some dogs can just play in a park full of dogs and be happy-go-lucky; but when a leash is put on them, they turn into Cujo. This behavior is called “leash aggression”, and many dogs have it. One reason for this behavior is that the human is holding the leash so tight the dog thinks something is going to attack and it must defend itself.

Other dogs and people can become incredibly interesting to dogs that are isolated for long periods. For example, long-term confinement to a backyard with a view of passers-by will often produce aggressive displays in what would otherwise be a friendly dog.

Barrier frustration, and the attendant aggressive reactivity it causes, has three components:

  1. The barrier itself frustrates the dog.
  2. Some activity, or a simple attraction on the other side of the barrier may act as a tease and will stimulate the dog to the point of frustration.
  3. Barking, jumping, chewing, pacing, etc. is the dog's physical release from the frustration created by the barrier.

We’ve all experienced frustration and it's suite of emotions and behaviors. A car that suddenly won’t start, a photocopier that jams when you’re in a rush and a spouse who changes the channel in the middle of a critical moment in your favorite TV show all might elicit acute aggression in us.

Research on a wide variety of animals has shown again and again that frustration can elicit aggression.

Aggression towards dogs in the same fenced in area is common when a dog is frustrated and agitated; the dogs have no way to release the stress caused by barrier frustration, so they take it out on the nearest thing - which could be another dog or even a human nearby.

behavior class

 

You can find our Facebook Page HERE

Check out Suzanne Morrison's blog also. Suzanne is a photographer supreme :) and owns three rescued greyhounds who are learning about other breeds of dogs and how to intereact with them.

Sept/Oct Calendar



Oct 1 - Brandi Fenton 10:00am
Oct 2 - Behavior Class 9:00am
Oct 3 - Advanced Behavior 9am
Oct 5 - Puppy Class 6:00pm
Oct 7 - Tiny Tyrants 6:00pm
Oct 8 - Brandi Fenton 10:00am
Oct 9 - Behavior Class 9:00am
Oct 10 - Advanced Behavior 9am
Oct 12 - Puppy Class 6:00pm Graduation
Oct 13 - Tiny Tyrants 6:00pm Graduation
Oct 15 - Behavior Class 9:00am Graduation
Oct 16 - Advanced Behavior 9am
Oct 18 - Puppy Class 6:00pm
Oct 20 - Tiny Tyrants 6:00pm
Oct 21 - Brandi Fenton 10:00am
Oct 22 - Behavior Class 9:00am
Oct 23 - Advanced Behavior 9am
Oct 25 - Puppy Class 6:00pm
Oct 27 - Tiny Tyrants 6:00pm
Oct 28 - Brandi Fenton 10:00am
Oct 29 - Behavior Class 9:00am
Oct 30 - Advanced Behavior 9am
Nov 2- Puppy Class 6:00pm
Nov 4 - Tiny Tyrants 6:00pm
Nov 5 - Brandi Fenton 10:00am
Nov 6 - Behavior Class 9:00am
Nov 7 - Advanced Behavior 9am

Ask The Trainer at Tucson Cold Wet Noses Rescue

Do All Dogs Know Dog Language?

Canine body language is learned, not instinctive. There are numerous reasons a dog might not know how to use social signals properly. Even instinctive calming signals can be unlearned or shown to be ineffective.

Being calm and balanced is a very dominant instinct in dogs. Puppies learn valuable lessons from their environment, mom and the other pups in the litter. Once a pup has left the litter, you must be very careful about the company a puppy keeps or the pup might learn that social and calming signals are of no use. If a pup, while displaying calming signals, encounters a dog lacking respect for appropriate body language and is attacked, the pup may learn that the signals he was using are ineffective.

It's a good idea to protect young dogs from interacting with unnatural, angry dogs. Safe, friendly dogs with good signals are the best teachers a young dog can have. Puppy classes are helpful in teaching these lessons, but can do more harm than good if inappropriate dogs are allowed to interact.

Some owners hamper a dog's attempt to communicate with other dogs or humans by inhibiting them with leashes. Dogs should be on leash - mostly because it's the law - but it is not safe to turn your dog loose to communicate freely with an unknown dog. By putting your dog on a leash, you must be aware that you could be preventing appropriate body language in your dog. You are not a dog, and no matter how many hours you spend studying canine body language, there are going to be numerous signals that you will miss or will misinterpret. My hard and fast rule these days is no greeting another dog when on a leash.

Whether on purpose or unintentionally, some dogs have been taught to ignore signals. Even some trainers make mistakes - especially when teaching obedience in a group situation. A typical obedience class exercise: Owners command their dogs to Sit and Stay. Dogs happily comply. The instructor now asks owners and dogs to take turns weaving among the sitting dogs. This is fine in a class where all the dogs know each other, like each other and there is enough room that personal boundaries are not crossed. In most situations however, the owners have not yet been taught these important facts about dogs and could miss the signaling and insist that their dog continue moving toward and around another dog despite discomfort or fear.


Seize The Leash - Newsletter Vol. 2 Issue 11

    Boundaries

    Boundaries; we all have them, as adults and children and dogs.  A boundary can be anywhere; you just have to choose it.  Teaching a dog boundaries is fairly easy.  There is no command for setting boundaries.. If you put this on command, the dog will cross the boundary when you aren't there or aren't reinforcing it with a command. Setting boundaries should be done in complete silence. Your dog needs to fully understand that it is absolutely not an option to cross a boundary without permission.

    The first thing you need to establish is a boundary somewhere. This is commonly done the first time with the front door of your house. Draw an imaginary line 10 to 15 feet from your front door. Put a leash on your dog so that if she crosses the boundary you have some control over your dog until she understands.

    Start out with your dog behind you and behind the boundary. Walk towards the boundary. If your dog tries to follow you over the boundary, turn and walk into her. Use your body to move her back behind the boundary. Body blocking is the only thing you need for this exercise. You need say nothing, in fact it works better if you don't say anything at all. Just use your body and your attitude to get your dog to understand the she is not to cross that boundary.

    Once back over the boundary you turn and try again. If your dog does not attempt to follow you quickly throw a treat back behind her. You want the treats behind her so that she turns away from the boundary to get the treat. This teaches her that the good things are farther away from the door. Throwing the treat keeps the dog from coming to you to get it, thus ruining the exercise.

    Continue walking to the door until the dog stays behind the boundary with no problems. Then add successively: touching the door handle, opening the door slightly, then wider and wider until you can actually move through the door and your dog stays behind that boundary. One important thing to remember in this exercise is that you have to do this naturally. You must completely turn your back on your dog and walk at a normal pace to the door. Activate the eyes in the back of your head to keep track of what your dog is doing. All this should be done as though you were actually doing it - actually going out the door or answering the door bell and greeting someone. If you don't act naturally, you aren't teaching your dog the correct exercise.

    Always be ready to body block your dog back behind the boundary at each step. You must act immediately turning and walking into them. Do not use words, you can use sounds.. But you are not going to tell the dog to stay or wait or back up or anything, the dog is in a "stay", he is just not to come over the boundary.

    Behavior Training Tools

    Most people tend to think of their dog's behavior in terms of what they don't want the dog to do; not jump, not pull, not run away. Instead, we should define what we WANTour dogs to do Because people "don't want...." they tend to resort to punishment. If a dog doesn't know what you want it to do, then how is punishment going to teach it?

    The first area to consider when doing behavior training is your environment and how it is managed. If the environment is not under your control, it is very important that you bring it under control. The second area is your relationship with the dog, and the third is training new behaviors.

    Environmental Management Tools

    • Tie-Down: The tie-down is a short (36-48 inch) cable attached to something completely immovable, like a wall or very heavy piece of furniture. It is not punishment; merely control, and should be comfortable and accompanied by something pleasant (like a chewy).
    • Crate: A crate is an indoor doghouse, which can be used to confine a dog when you’re not able to watch him. Dogs should not be kept in a crate for too long of a period of time. Some dogs react well to crating, others do better with a tie-down or pen.
    • Puppy pen: This is the canine equivalent to a child’s playpen. It can be moved from room to room, if needed. The dog can move around, and can have a variety of chew items or toys in the pen with him.
    • Equipment:
      • Snoot Loop - this is similar to a Halti or Gentle Leader but is specifically designed for handling reactivity.
      • Slip Lead - Your basic kennel or show lead that fits high up on the neck for control
      • Long Line - 20 to 50 feet
      • Flirt Poll and other toys - for natural play training
      • Marker word and release word for use in teaching behaviors

    Relationship Tools

    Though it may seem strange to talk about tools to adjust the relationship between dog and human, the items listed below really are just that.

    • Hand Feeding: One of the quickest ways, besides a walk, to build a relationship with your dog is to hand feed it. Get the dog to actully work for the food in your hand, either by having to reach for the food, sit for the food, or push against your other hand to get to the food.
    • The Answer to All Questions: The dog learns that you are the answer to all of his questions. What do I do with my energy; Where's the danger and what do I do with it; the two main questions a dog asks. If you can consistently answer these questions for your dog, he will be happy and easy to be around.
    • Human attention: Along with food, attention is of tremendous importance to a dog. Some dogs seek a great deal of attention from their owner (pawing at legs or barking). In order to have a balanced relationship, some dogs just need a little reminder as to who gets to demand what from whom.
    • Play: All dogs love to play. Those dogs who don't play are out of balance and need to relearn how to play Some dogs are easily bullied by others.Some dogs learn to play inappropriately. Some dogs are bullies. Some never learned bite inhibition and some never learned all the social signals that are necessary between dogs to keep things calm. Playing with your dog can rehabilitate him into a happy, social, calm dog.

    Behavior Training Exercises

    • Free Shaping: This teaches your dog that the marker word (or clicker) means he did something you wanted him to do and that he will be rewarded for having done it.
    • Whiplash Turn or Head Snap: It’s very important to teach your dog to look at you and begin coming to you when you just say his name. The important part of this exercise is when he actually turns his head, not when he starts to come to you or is already with you. It's the turn of the head.
    • Collar Grab: Getting a dog use to having it's collar grabbed will prevent him from redirecting his reactivity to you or anyone else who is trying to control him or get him out of harms way.
    • Attention: You’ll want your dog to not only look at you when you say her name, but also to sustain eye contact with you even under heavy distraction.
    • Down or Settle: Most dogs have a hard time calming themselves down. Your dog should learn to calm down when you instruct him to.
    • Find-it: This is a wonderful exercise to teach - fun for the dog and for the owner. At its most useful, it distracts the dog away from another dog or human.
    • Look At "That": We don't want your dog to totally ignore everything in the environment. This exercise allows the dog to look, but not touch and just be comfortable looking at something or someone.
    • Wait: “Wait” means hold on a second and then you can do that. It's different from stay which means don't move a muscle until I release you.
    • The U-turn: A quick way to turn the dog away from an "attraction," whether it's another dog or anything else is to do a quick U- Turn.

Seize The Leash Services

Group Behavior Training
SATURDAY, November 13th at 9am at Ft Lowell Park- Sign Up Here
WEDNESDAY, November 10th at 6pm at Christopher Columbus Park- Sign Up Here
FRIDAY, November 12th at 10am at Ft Lowell Park- Sign Up Here

Tiny Tyrants Behavior Class
THURSDAY, November 11th at 6pm at Ft Lowell Park- Sign Up Here

Puppy Basics
TUESDAY, November 9th at 6pm at Ft Lowell Park. - Sign Up Here

Advanced Behavior Training
SUNDAY, November 14th at 9am Brandi Fenton Park. - Sign Up Here

 

Please feel free to contact us at any time for more information, class schedules or just questions about your dog. We can be reached via email at packleader@seizetheeleash.com or by phone at 727-686-4246 or 520-751-7772 (message only).

 

Busy Bee Training

We've all seen the way our dogs act the first time they enter a new area, whether it's a friend's house or a park. The dog's nose hits the ground, and they start to explore. They will examine unfamiliar structures, sounds, smells, people and animals. It's instinctual! They will do this until they reach a level of comfort and security with their new surroundings. For some dogs, this process will only take a few minutes. Some may take several hours and sometimes even days.

With this in mind, how can we expect a dog that is already having "issues," to be placed in a situation where they have not been able to establish a comfort level? How will he stay focused on the task of training? This is contradictory to the natural, instinctual learning process of the dog. One step forward, two steps back.

Seize the Leash offers an intensive and highly customized training plan to relieve your frustration with your dog's behavior and restore the balance to your relationship - while you are at work, school or the spa, going on vacation, going out of town for business or just don't have the time to train your dog. I will come to your home and teach your dog self control, impulse control and how to live in the human world. Each visit is 30 minutes long. This is a three or four week program with a guarantee in basic manners and any behvioral issues such as jumping, housebreaking, door manners, etc. At the end of each week we can have a private lesson or we can meet on the last lesson so I can teach you the skills your dog has learned and how you can maintain them.

You will be amazed and delighted at your dog's improvement. We can teach in several sessions what it might take you months to learn in group classes. Your dog benefits by learning from a skilled and experienced dog trainer. You are spared the pitfalls of learning to be a dog trainer while at the same time trying to teach your dog.

Busy Bee Training programs include unlimited email support and a follow-up visit within 6 months of training. Each Training plan is different, designed to fit your unique situation.


Behavior Training Class

All exercises are designed for the success of your dog. Training exercises are divided into a variety of categories to help you build a strong relationship with your dog while helping your pet develop a broad base of life skills and the ability to cope with their old fears and easily handle new things and new environments.

Controlled Freedom:
Specific exercises designed to teach your dog to follow your directions and stay connected to you even when they are distracted, aroused or excited.

Impulse Control:
A common cause of behavior problems in dogs is distraction. Environmental triggers cause dogs to shift their focus from you to the distraction. you will learn commands that help improve a dogs attentiveness to their owner and to assis the dog in controlling himself.

Confidence Building:
Communication exercises designed to increase your dogs trust in you while improving their self confidence.

Leadership:
Massage, TTouch, body handling and movement exercises that show your dog that trusting you to move him around raises his confidence, makes him feel good, ease his stress and makes you the most desirable thing in his environment.

Play Training:
In all games that you play with your shy or reative dog, the dog should always win.It builds confidence and a confident dog performs very crisp and quick actions. We need to let our dogs be dogs and think that playing with you is the most fun thing in the world, nothing else really matters. Training puppies should not destroy personality. It should enhance it and focus it into acceptable behaviors and away from unacceptable behaviors.